PFW: Haider Ackermann Autumn/Winter 2010

For fall, Haider Ackermann sent out models that looked as though they were princesses that had been in a fight on the planet of Tatooine. Indeed, it looked as though they could have concealed swords in the folds and the draping of sculpted vests and jackets with folded, oversized lapels that cascaded down the silhouette. In a season that has tirelessly explored power dressing, a subject that can easily feel tired, Ackermann has found the essence of it - femininity with, quite literally, razor sharp tailoring.
The collection had many of Mr. Ackermann's signature elements. Draping, leather leggings and a healthy dose of zippers all made an appearance. Leave it for others to suffer for fashion. Leave it also for others to worry about the bottom half of the body, as Ackermann paired nearly every look with his leather leggings.
It began with the jackets and vests with folded lapels that cascaded down the body and were cinched or tied at the waist. As did many of the pieces, these continued with zipped on peplums, which were unzipped a little and stuck out suggestively at the waist. There were super short, corseted jackets that flared at the waist and came to a sharp point in the front, which gave them the look of armour. Silk trouser suits followed, either oversized or structured and short worn with an angular vest underneath. Floor length cocoon coats were on offer, one in lavender with a curved panel of black leather, a suggestion of colour in a show of dark neutrals.
Though over sexiness has never been on the agenda, when Ackermann did give sex, he did it extremely. The last look was pure sex - a long evening gown with an impossibly high slit up the thigh, fashioned from a lace that looked as though it had begun to disintegrate and had origami-like folds at the waist.
Despite the sharp tailoring and pointy silhouettes, he managed to infuse a certain ease into the collection, with the draping and folding that gave it a beautiful femininity and softness. Power = sexy, and there was no shortage of either here.It was a quintessential Haider Ackermann spectacle, one worth fighting for. These women of Tatooine, they have the right idea.

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