PFW: Karl Lagerfeld Autumn/Winter 2010

For fall at Karl Lagerfeld, the new sort of patent leather with a vinyl finish that dominated Karl Lagerfeld's show was echoed on the runway itself. This made it look as though the girls had been born from the catwalk and were walking towards their destinies. Where were they going? By the looks of things, to the roofs of skyscrapers to fight crime. If this was Lagerfeld's interpretation of the hyper futuristic, androgynous feeling that has engulfed New York and Paris, he did it as only he could do, while adhering to his roots.
Leggings that had the look of PVC (patent leather with a vinyl finish) were worn under tight mini skirts in the same fabric, either in black or a liquid silver. Jackets were short and flared at the waist, or structured with fronts folded back to create a geometric peplum. Some of these were corseted with oversized, rounded shoulders, and looked modern in black, purple and white, with the occasional appearance of a pointy patent leather panel. A long jacket with red piping and a long-sleeved dress with piping and zipped up had echoes of the 60s. Indeed, the collection had hints of the past. A dress with the folded back peplum in pleated silk and cap sleeves was a nod to the 40s. The look of wearing two garments at once was everywhere, in the patent leather leggings and skirt combination and for evening, corseted affairs with peplums worn over a beaded shift. Floor sweeping panels of sheer black hung from the hems of jackets and vests. For evening, long, billowing dresses were as beaded as they could be with small plastic discs that had the look of oversized sequins. These could add drama when jumping from rooftop to rooftop.

When asked about the past, Lagerfeld wonders why people reminisce about it. He ponders why, if the old days were so good, go on? Clearly, he is moving on, but looking back. Lagerfeld can't forget the young girls and ladies who lunch, but perhaps this season, after a morning of fighting criminals, they are lunching on Mars.

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