PFW: Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2011

A giant rumbling roar kicked off the Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2011 show, as Riccardo Tisci proudly announced that “there’s more sex than usual” in this collection. The head designer seemed mesmerized by all things powerful and seductive, including pin-up model Bettie Page (who even graced some sweaters) and the sleek, dark allure of the dangerous-yet-elegant black panther. 

As  per usual, Tisci’s dark, Gothic inspiration could be felt, but there was some kind of shift from last season, which kept silhouettes long and extended, and used sheer layers to create something vampish yet sophisticated. This time, the creations veered on a more whimsical idea, with violet floral prints and a mix of printed trophy jackets which were layered over skirts. Tisci kept his vision simple, sticking firmly to one silhouette which he played with gently throughout. There was subtle S&M references too, with latex style tutus and tight leather. 

Tisci captured something wild, free and vigorous in the spirit of the collection. Mashing floral prints and sheer underskirts, lashings of dark leather and fur, it perhaps lost just a pinch of the elegance we saw last season, but in it’s place was a sexed-up, cat-like Givenchy girl with a fresh attitude.


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