Set before a glistening, glittering dark backdrop, the Chanel haute couture Autumn/Winter 2011 show was a natural follow on from the volcanic darkness Karl Lagerfeld conjured up for the mainline collection for the same season. With dark greys and deep midnight blues, the collection was predominantly dark, although Lagerfeld did add a few outfits made up of block dark violet which was interspersed sporadically, standing out strangely against the darkness and smokiness of the other creations.
The collection dipped deep into the Chanel archives, with everything from the usual tweed suits (with some added peplums and slightly off the shoulder jackets) to the more impressive gowns and full length dresses which took their inspiration from some of Coco Chanel's most pioneering work. One dress, also featuring a peplum, ended in a dramatic mermaid tail which was echoed across the shoulders with flared folded fabric - the outfit was completed with sheer sleeves and a lacy eye mask which each model wore, adding to the mystery and darkness of each look.
Karl’s dark yet glamorous vision perhaps reflects the times we live in - where luxury has become a little more understated and less obvious, less loud. Always one of lead the way, he has created a new idea of what he believes current luxury is - dark, sophisticated, refined - this collection is classic, intricate and without being so obvious or in your face - the birth of a more subdued luxury.
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